TABLE OF CONTENTS

Our skin is the largest organ of the body.  How we take care of it will determine how it looks, feels and ages.  As such, using safe and gentle ingredients is one of the typical ways we can ensure that we are taking care of our skin for the long term.  While there are many other ingredients, natural and otherwise that have been proven helpful in the management of some of the skin’s most pesky and serious issues, the list is not exhausted, hence this article on squalene. 

Squalene is denoted one of those ingredients that should be a consideration in any skincare regimen, particularly for antiaging purposes.  This is due to its purported effects in reducing free radicals and oxidative damage to the skin, hydrating the skin as well as being a potent emollient.  All these are critical factors to consider in a skincare regimen to reduce or maintain the skin, both in the short and long term. Let’s discuss!

You can read more about Anti-aging skincare ingredients in these articles:

• • Oh No! Not on my Skin – 5 Skincare Ingredients to carefully examine or just avoid.
  • Aging like a Boss!
  • Lactic acid and the skin.

The Discussion

Squalene is described as a unique triterpene compound that comprises a huge percentage of the skin surface lipids (Passi et. al. 2002).  A triterpene compound acts as a mediator in the synthesis of cholesterol (Huang ZR et. al. 2009).  Squalene received its name due to the fact that it was originally isolated from shark liver (Squalus spp.).  

Shark liver is denoted as the largest and richest quantities of squalene (Gershbein, and Singh, 1969).  However, squalene is naturally produced by the human body with the greatest concentration found in the skin, particularly the sebaceous glands. Nonetheless, it is significantly reduced as we age, particularly after the age of Thirty (30) (Kelly, 1999). 

The sebaceous glands are small glands of the skin which secrete sebum (an oily substance).  The sebum is then used to lubricate the skin and the hair.  As such, squalene is said to be abundant in the face and the scalp (Pragst et. al. 2004).  Of the sebum that secretes in the skin, research denotes that about Thirteen (13%) per cent derives from squalene.  

Other compounds that make up the sebum include wax esters Twenty-five (25%) per cent, cholesterol Two (2%) per cent, triglycerides, free fatty acids and diglycerides Fifty-seven (57%) per cent and other compounds Three (3%) per cent (Pragst et. al. 2004).  As such, squalene is critical in keeping the skin moisturized and hydrated, which is important for overall skin health. 

Additionally, experimental studies in rodents have suggested that squalene could be beneficial in inhibiting chemically induced skin colon and lung tumorigenesis (Auffray, 2007).  The protective effect of squalene was observed both before and after carcinogen treatment.  However, caution must be taken in making any references as it relates to its effects on humans, as they might not be realized in the same (Huang ZR et. al. 2009).  

Nonetheless, among its many purported benefits to the skin, two (2) of the main ones include its ability to reduce free radicals and oxidative stress, which are often precursors to photodamaging and other incidents of skin aging (Huang ZR et. al. 2009).

Nonetheless, as its demand increased in the cosmetic industry, so did the ethical concerns due to it being taken from the liver of sharks. As such, the squalene that is now used for skin care is said to be largely derived from plant sources such as olives, rice bran, amaranth seed and wheat germ (Huang ZR et. al. 2009).

In this article, we will be discussing three (3) main reasons for adding squalene to your skincare regimen, especially if you suffer from dry skin. Some of the benefits that will be discussed include its ability to act as an emollient for the skin, helping with skin hydration and providing antioxidants to the skin which helps the skin fight free radicals and other factors which can contribute to skin health and premature aging. The article will also discuss the differences between squalene with an ‘e’ and squalane with an ‘a’ which is oftentimes confused.

Three (3) ‘must know’ Skincare benefits of Squalene:

• Acting as a great emollient for the skin.
• Hydrating the skin
• Providing antioxidants to the skin.

Squalene as a Skin Emollient

An emollient is described as anything that can soften or soothe the skin.  As such, you usually find ingredients that possess this type of quality in moisturizing products.  Some of the most common types of emollients that are found in skincare products include cocoa butter, lanolin, petrolatum and even mineral oil.  Nonetheless, squalene is denoted as a great emollient.  This is because it can be easily absorbed by the skin, making it supple as well as flexible while not leaving a greasy residue (Blasco et. al. 2006).

Therefore, while it is technically classified as an oil, it does not leave an oily residue on the skin, which is a bonus of using it (thedermreview.com).  Additionally, it is odourless, non-comedogenic (Doesn’t block the pores) and is considered safe for even sensitive skin (thedermreview.com). Other benefits of emollient properties are that they help to protect the skin surface from the peroxidation of lipids due to sun exposure (10 – squalene as a moisturizer).  Lipid peroxidation is described as a situation in which the oxidants such as free radicals attack lipids such as polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs), which are categorized as carbon-carbon double-bond lipids (Ayala, et. al. 2014).

Squalene as a Skin Hydrator

Squalene was shown to help to hydrate the skin as well as lock in moisture, which is critical for skin care, particularly aging skin (Okuda et al. 2002).  Squalene’s hydrating and moisturizing effect is due to its lipid properties which help with the suppleness of the skin.  As such, it would be a great addition for those on an anti-aging regimen or others who just simply want healthy-looking skin in general.

To this extent, squalene is said to be effective in treating dry skin.  However, research suggests that those with oily or acne-prone skin must practice caution in using the ingredient as it could cause further breakouts, even though it is stated to be non-comedogenic (Huang ZR et. al. 2009).  As such, it would be imperative for persons in these categories to conduct a patch test to see how the skin will react.

Squalene and its Skin Antioxidant Properties

Squalene is said to possess antioxidant properties.  As such, it purportedly has an oxygen-savaging agent in vitro studies (Saint-Leger et. al. 1986).  Further, its antioxidant properties make it a crucial compound in managing oxidative stress such as exposure to sunlight, which can ultimately help with premature aging of the skin as well as some of the other signs of aging including fine lines and wrinkles.

Additionally, research suggests that squalene also acts as a quencher for the skin and thus prevents the peroxidation of lipids on the surface of the skin (Saint-Leger et. al. 1986; Kohno, et. al. 1995).  It was also shown to be possibly effective in alleviating skin irritation (Aioi, et.al. 1995).

Squalene Vs Squalane – Is there a Dupe or a Difference?

No, there is no dupe, but there is a difference. While both of them are identified as ‘natural components of the sebum of the human skin in some research,’ squalene with an ‘e’ is naturally found in the human body. However, in skincare, it is usually derived from plant-based oil sources such as olive oil, wheatgerm etc. through the process of isolation (Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Squalane and Squalene, 1990). 

It is also reportedly used in the cosmetic industry for more than Twenty-five (25) years, as a vehicle for topical applications (CFTA, 1978; Rybczynska, 1965).  Additionally, in cosmetics, it is usually used in formulations ranging from 0.1 to up to Fifty (50%) per cent. Some of the formulations include – bath preparations, eye makeup removers, blushes, moisturizing and skincare products (FDA, 1976).  It is also used as an intermediate in the manufacturing of pharmaceuticals and other agents (CFTA, 1978, Final Report on the safety assessment of Squalane and Squalene, 1990). 

On the other hand, squalane with an ‘a’ is a molecular distillation of shark liver oil, which then goes through a process of hydrogenation, distillation and redistillation to be purified for use (CFTA, 1978).  As such, this was the oil that was usually used in cosmetics, but due to voiced ethical concerns, other plant-based oils were used, hence ‘squalene’ with an ‘e.’ Research contends that this is usually the one that can be found in cosmetic products (CFTA, 1978; Rybczynska, 1965).

Like squalene, with an ‘e,’ it is said to have been used commercially for over Twenty-five (25) years in products such as lipsticks, topical creams, lotions, ointments etc. (CFTA’ Hawley,1971; Barnett, 1972; Rybczynska, 1965).   As such, it is best to read the labels of squalene and related products to ascertain the sources.  However, here is where the confusion may come in. In many cosmetic products, you will see squalane with an ‘a.’  But, do not be alarmed, as this does not necessarily mean that the product is from the shark. 

The thing is, squalene with an ‘e,’ sometimes goes through a hydrogenated process which can change it to squalane, with an ‘a.’ (Final Report on the safety assessment of Squalane and Squalene, 1990). This process makes the product more stable to be used in cosmetics, as squalene on its own is easily oxidized It also helps to increase the shelf life of the product and prevents it from oxidation when it is exposed to air (Final Report on the safety assessment of Squalane and Squalene, 1990).

Is Squalene Toxic or Have Any Side Effects?

Squalene has been shown to have reversible depilatory effects (hair removal) on animals (Flesch, 1951; Flesh and Hunt, 1952; Polemann, 1954).  This was found in a study by Flesch (1951) using a single application of One Hundred (100%) per cent squalene to the skin of rabbits (1 ml)  and Guinea pigs (1 ml.) and mice (0.2 ml).  It was observed that the hair of the rabbit where the oil was applied fell out in the first week of use, with the area becoming completely bald in 10-12 days.  

A few days after, the guinea pigs also lost their hair in the area of application after Ten (10) days of use.  However, the animals regrew their hair in the third (3^rd) week of use.  Principally, no toxic symptoms were observed in any of the animals. Nonetheless, some human studies did not show this same effect.

Additionally, while it is considered non-comedogenic, research has indicated that it might cause breakouts for oily, combination or acne-prone type skin. As such, do your patch test before general application.  Overall, the acute toxicity of both squalene and squalene is reportedly very low (Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Squalane and Squalene, 1990) and was found to not cause any irritant to the eyes and skin of the animals used in the research mentioned.

How to include Squalene in your Skincare Routine

Squalene is available in several cosmetic products, such as in its pure oil format, moisturizers, lotions, creams etc. As such, you can incorporate it as part of your moisturizing and anti-aging routine to lock in moisture and protect the barrier of the skin.

Illustrative Summary

Here is an illustrative summary of the Three (3) Skincare Benefits of SQUALENE in your Skincare Regimen.

Let’s Sum Up!

Squalene has been denoted as a great plant-based emollient and hydrator of the skin.  It also purportedly possessed antioxidant properties.  However, in skincare, you might see ‘squalane’ with an ‘a.’ This is usually the hydrogenated version of the oil unless indicated otherwise by the manufacturer of the product.  You can read more on this further in the article. 

Therefore, if you truly need that glow, why not consider this ingredient for your skincare or anti-aging regimen?  So, have you ever used squalene before? How was it? Share it nuh!  Now, with all that was said… Are you Skintimate Yet?

You can read more about Anti-aging skincare ingredients in these articles:

• • Oh No! Not on my Skin – 5 Skincare Ingredients to carefully examine or just avoid.
  • Aging like a Boss!
  • Lactic acid and the skin.

Editor’s Note: Article updated on July 9, 2024.

References

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