Skin health is of concern to everyone, women and men alike as no one wants to walk around with dull, blemished or rough-looking skin.  However, it is important to note that what we put in our bodies is equally important as what we put on it.  As such, a lot of the ingredients that are in some of these products are counterproductive, as they not only lead to long-term damage to the skin but can contribute to ill health due to the hazardous ingredients that they contain.  Hence, we need to pay keen attention to not only what we put in our body, but also to what we put on it.  You can read more on the skin in this article. 

Love the Skin You’re In!

In this article, we will discuss five (5) ingredients that are common in many of our skincare products that are proven harmful to our skin when used on their own or when added to other ingredients.  These ingredients include Formaldehyde, Polyethylene Glycol (PEGs), Coal tar dyes, Triethanolamine (TEA) and Triclosan. Are we doing more harm than good in the long term if we continue to slather these chemicals on our skin? Let’s discuss!

The Discussion

Our skin is like a sponge, it absorbs everything we put on.  Therefore, just as we are mindful (hopefully) of what we put in our bodies by reading nutritional labels, we need to follow suit when it comes to our skincare products. While this might not be on our list of priorities, it should become a necessary activity if we want to achieve and maintain beautiful skin without paying the price of ill health or even death.  

It is very disheartening to know that some manufacturers would include ingredients in their products that are known carcinogens or otherwise toxic in the name of profit maximization.  The number of harmful ingredients seems to be increasing at rates where it is becoming hard to keep up.  As such, in this article, we are only going to be looking at five (5) of these ingredients and will continue our research on others in subsequent articles.

Five (5) Skincare Ingredients that you need to Examine or just Avoid:

• Formaldehyde.
• Polyethylene Glycol (PEGs).
• Coal Tar Dyes
• Triethanolamine (TEA).
• Triclosan.

Formaldehyde and the Skin

Formaldehyde is a colourless, strong-smelling flammable gas (especially at room temperature) that is made through the process of oxidizing methanol (Dictionary.com).  It was discovered in 1863 by August Wilhelm von Hofmann, a German chemist (Online Etymology Dictionary, © 2010 Douglas Harper).  Formaldehyde works by attacking bacteria by reacting with protein amino groups which then results in the alteration of the nature and activity level of these protein groups (Knop & Pilato, 1989).  

We become exposed to formaldehyde via cigarette smoke as well as during the burning of fuels or household waste.  Formaldehyde is also found in the human body naturally but in minute amounts (Illinois Department of Public Health).  It is usually used in many household and personal care products (skin and hair) such as shampoos, body wash, and hair gel as well as in glues (nail and eyelash), adhesive, fertilizers and certain insulation materials and industrial resins e.g. for particleboard and coatings.  Formaldehyde is used in cosmetics products to prevent the growth of bacteria (Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry, 2008).

Formaldehyde is usually more complex than other carbon compounds due to its ability to take on varying forms.  For example, as a gas, it is colourless and can be converted into many other forms of formaldehyde such as cyclic meta-formaldehyde.  However, when it is dissolved in water, it forms hydrate methanediol or formalin (New World Encyclopedia). Some of the effects of formaldehyde on humans include watery or burning eyes, coughing, wheezing, nausea and skin irritations which are heightened if it exceeds 0.1 parts per million (ppm) in the air.  If in higher concentration, it can enter the bloodstream which eventually affects the organs of the body (Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry, 2008).

We are at a higher chance of becoming exposed to this gas mainly by inhaling it as well as through our skin when it is produced in the form of a liquid.  We can also become exposed to this substance if we use foods that use it as a preservative. Formaldehyde leaves the body through urination as such, only in high concentration does it enter the bloodstream.  It can also be converted into carbon dioxide and leave the body as you breathe out (Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry, 2008).

According to the National Cancer Institute, long-term exposure to formaldehyde may cause leukaemia, particularly myeloid leukaemia.  This further concurred with tests done on rats which linked formaldehyde to cancers of the nasal cavity and leukaemia (National Cancer Institute).  However, studies show that inhaling formaldehyde at levels of 1.9 ppm (parts per million) for 40 minutes did not increase the levels of the substance in the blood.  As such, the European Union allows for personal care products to have up to .2ppm of free formaldehyde in personal care products.  However, this is still enough to cause adverse effects such as dermatitis and skin inflammation (Dalefield, 2017).

Nonetheless, there are epidemiological studies that show that there exists no overall cancer threat from one’s exposure to formaldehyde, especially in some of the limits below ascribed by these contradictory studies.  Sadly though, most of these studies were sponsored by Formaldehyde Institutions. One such study was that of the European Chemical Industry Ecology and Toxicology Centre (ECETOC) which in 1982 reported that no relationship exists between formaldehyde exposure and cancer in humans, an argument that has been refuted by many subsequent studies (Pershagen, 1997).

Formaldehyde is considered a toxic ingredient due to the significant danger it poses to human health.  As such, the US National Toxicology Program (NTP) in 2011 described it as a known human carcinogen (National Toxicology Program, 2011).  The study also found that the risk of toxicity from formaldehyde increases among industrial workers. To this extent, the US Department of Labour in 1987 reduced the permissible worker exposure from 3 to 1 p.p.m.  Further, short-term exposure of 15 minutes period was limited to 2 p.p.m.  While the permissible level of exposure varies from country to country. In Western Europe, the allowable exposure in West Germany is set to 0.5 p.p.m (Knop & Pilato, 1989).  

To avoid this substance, read product labels and look out for products with these names – formalin, methanediol, methanol, and methylene oxide.  It is mostly found in cosmetics products in the form of a releasing preservative such as quaternium-15, dimethyl-dimethyl (DMDM) hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, bromopol and glyoxal.

Polyethylene Glycol (PEG’s) Contaminants and the Skin

Polyethylene (PEGs) is a petroleum-based substance predominantly used in cosmetics products as a solvent, thickener, stabilizer and softener. However, it is actually a mixture of compounds of polymers that have bonded together (Jang et. al 2015). At room temperate, it is a clear, colourless and slightly syrupy liquid substance. Polyethene Glycol is often used to balance the PH levels of products, as well as a penetrating agent which further allows for the absorption of the ingredients of the product to penetrate more easily through the skin (Jang et. al 2015). ).  PEGs are usually found in products such as moisturizers, lotions, hair products, cosmetics, car products and pharmaceutical products such as laxatives.

PEGs are not considered a chemical entity in themselves and as such are denoted as generally safe in foods, especially in the higher polymer which is said to be less absorbable by the body (The Scientific Panel on Food Additives – EU).  In fact, PEG-6000 was approved for use as a carrier for sweeteners by the European Parliament and Council of the European Union in 1998 (The Scientific Panel on Food Additives – EU).  No other grades or uses were approved for use in food in the European Union.  

Extra caution arises when polyethylene glycol becomes contaminated through manufacturing practices with compounds such as ethylene oxide, 1, 4 dioxane and heavy metals such as arsenic and lead which research has linked to certain types of cancers (International Journal of Toxicology).  In these instances, products with PEGs can cause skin rashes, and dermatitis as well as make the skin more vulnerable to acne and blisters (Cosmetics Ingredient Review Committee – CIR). 

On products, PEGs are typically followed by a number, for example, PEG-100, PEG-2, PEG-8 etc. The numbers are usually representative of the molecular weight of the particular compound.  The lower the molecular, for example, PEG-2, the more easily it is for the compound to be absorbed into the skin.  As such, most cosmetic products usually contain PEGs with lower molecular weights.  The contaminant ethylene oxide which is highly toxic even in small doses is usually found in PEG compounds such as PEG-4, PEG-7 and PEG-100.  Therefore, contact with this compound during production as well as via clinical use can reportedly increase one’s chances of developing leukaemia and other types of cancers (Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR).   Further, 1,4 dioxane, a known carcinogen, can be found in PEG compounds with the following polymers – PEG-8, PEG-32, PEG- 75 and PEG-150 etc. 

While PEGs in and of themselves are not toxic in small amounts to humans, caution must be taken as to the ingredients in products which use a form of PEG. This is crucial, as the addition of PEG will allow the chemicals in these products to penetrate into the bloodstream and that is where the issue exists. So, take a look at some of your favourite skin or hair care products, see those chemicals? If PEG is labelled as an ingredient, those chemicals have a higher possibility of penetrating your skin which can ultimately lead to toxicity, especially for long-term, consistent usage.

Coal Tar Dyes and the Skin

Coal tar dyes are artificial colours that are made by combining several hydrocarbon compounds such as benzene, xylene and toluene through the distillation of bituminous coal (Collinsdictionary.com). It belongs to a class of drugs known as keratoplastic (medicinenet.com). Coal tar dye is a brown and black liquid with a high viscosity which is insoluble in water and is among the by-products of carbonized or gasified coal.  It is listed as a high hazard by the Environmental Working Group – EWG.  When coal is carbonized it makes metallurgical coke which is used in iron-making blasts furnaces and other metal-smelting processes and when it is gasified it makes coal gas (Singh et. al, 2015).  Coal tar was said to be discovered in 1665 but was not used for medical purposes until around the early 1800s (definitions.net).

Products containing coal tar dyes are used on the skin to treat conditions such as itching, scaling and flaking which are usually associated with dandruff, eczema and psoriasis.  As such, when it is applied to the skin it causes the skin to shed dead skin cells from the outer-most layers, which then slows down the growth of further skin cells (Singh et. al, 2015).  

Coal tar dyes are also used in the manufacturing of several other products such as the making of electrodes for the aluminium and steel industry as well as in synthetic dyes. It is usually the main ingredient in medicated shampoo, soap and ointments to treat dandruff and other scalp conditions (Singh et. al, 2015). The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has stipulated that products containing coal tar dyes within the range of 0.5% to 5% are considered effective.  However, all cosmetics products must display the level of coal tar concentration with specific precautions for the use of that product (National Toxicology Program).

The derived colours of coal tar are identifiable by a 5-digit colour index (C.I) number and may be listed as FD&C or D & C in cosmetic products. As such, products with the letters FD & C indicate that the colour is approved by the FDA to be used in foods, cosmetics and even prescription drugs. However, products labelled with the letters D & C are stated as not being approved to be used in foods.  While it has been proven as an effective treatment for psoriasis etc, it reportedly contains several carcinogenic compounds and has been shown to consistently cause cancer in animal studies (NTP 12th Report on Carcinogens).  However, according to Roelofzen (2010), short-term treatments in humans have shown no significant increase in the rate of cancer.  However, many dermatologists have abandoned its use for safety concerns.

Coal tar was one of the first chemical substances that were shown to cause cancer from occupational exposure such as in the paving of roads.  This was reported in 1775 as being the cause of Chimney sweeps carcinoma (Roberts, 2014).  Further studies have shown that those who come into contact with coal tar pitch as in road infrastructure have an increased risk of developing cancer (IARC, 2016).  However, some studies have indicated otherwise, especially when it comes to short-term contact (Roelofzen, et. al, 2010).

Nonetheless, while the cancer evidence for humans is inconclusive in some studies, it is best to stay clear of this ingredient when choosing your skincare products. It is often listed on products under the names tar, coal, coal tar solution, coal tar solution USP, crude coal tar, naphtha, Benzin B70, and petroleum benzin (Environmental Working Group – EWG).

Triethanolamine (TEA) and the Skin

TEA is a clear, colourless liquid which is thick in consistency and is composed of ethylene oxide and ammonia which are highly toxic chemicals. Its main uses are as a buffering agent and a PH balancer.  It is usually used in cosmetics and personal care products such as makeup bases, hair dyes, shaving products, skin cleansing products and sunscreens as well as in some fragrances (Cosmeticinfo.org).  Its use is approved by the FDA in personal care products for discontinuous, brief use and must be thoroughly rinsed from the skin.

Long-term use of TEA products can cause the ingredients to be absorbed into the skin which can increase the chances of organ damage.  As such, the FDA recommends that TEA should not exceed 5% for long-term use in products that will make contact with the skin.  It is also classified as a moderate hazard ingredient according to the Skin Deep Cosmetics Database.  This classification was concurred by the Occupational and Environmental Clinics and the National Library of Medicine which expressed that triethanolamine is a human skin, immune system and respiratory toxicant.

The dangers of TEA are heightened when it is used with products that contain certain N-nitrosating agents, such as nitrites, which can form carcinogenic nitrosamines (International Agency for Research on Cancer). N-nitrosating ingredients include preservatives such as bronidox and the infamous sodium nitrate, which is found in many processed foods such as hot dogs.  As such, look out for products with this ingredient.

Triclosan and the Skin

Triclosan is an antibacterial and anti-fungal agent that is used in cosmetics and some personal hygiene products.  It is particularly used in products as a preservative to prevent the growth of bacteria as well as product spoilage (chemicalsubstanceschimiques.gc.ca). It is used in products such as deodorants, soaps; toothpaste, shower gel and body wash among others. According to the European Cosmetic & Perfumery Association (COLIPA), the use of Triclosan in the European Union reached a record high of 450 tonnes in 2006 (Dye et al. (2007).

In Germany, the use of Triclosan in food-contact plastic was banned in 2009 while the Canadian government added it to the list of toxic substances in 2016 and put regulations in place to manage Triclosan used in products. As such, it was recommended that only .03% of Triclosan must be used in mouthwash products, 1.01% in non-prescription drugs and .3% in cosmetics and products labelled as natural health (COLIPA). However, in January 2019, the Canada Government announced that Triclosan does not pose a risk to humans at the current level of exposure.  However, it opined that Triclosan does pose a risk to the environment (Triclosan Fact Sheet – Canada.ca). 

According to an FDA study, Triclosan has been reported as an endocrine disruptor, thyroid hormones disruptor as well as having the potential to weaken the immune system (Chen et al, 2008).  Reports also suggest that children who come into contact with or are exposed to antibacterial products at an early age have an increased risk of developing eczema, asthma and allergies.  While triclosan is touted as an effective ingredient in the killing of bacteria, according to the American Medical Association (AMA), there is no clear evidence to suggest that antibacterial soaps are more effective than just pure soap and water.  

In September 2016, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States, announced that they would prohibit the sale of ‘consumer antiseptic washes’ that contains over 19 nineteen antimicrobial ingredients including triclosan and triclocarban among the other  Seventeen (17) ingredients that are marketed as antimicrobials or antiseptic (The Florence Statement on Triclosan and Triclocarban).  This is due to the FDA’s findings of the lack of efficacy of products with this substance.  However, the FDA has relayed that it will continue to monitor this ingredient for its health impact on humans.

Nonetheless, with all of this research, Triclosan is still present in many products today and many countries are still in limbo as to its use in personal care products. So, it is up to you to limit your exposure to this ingredient by scrutinizing products that usually carry it as well as finding natural alternatives. You can learn more about skincare products and how to develop a skincare routine here.

A Simplified Skin Care Routine – that Works!

Illustrative Summary

Five (5) Skin Care Ingredients to carefully examine or just avoid.

Let’s Sum Up!

There are ingredients that are considered healthy and good for our skin while there are others that are controversial or a proven hazard. Some of these hazardous and controversial ingredients include Formaldehyde, PEGs contaminants, Coal tar dyes, TEAs and Triclosan. Formaldehyde is classified as a known toxicant which is in the very air we breathe as well as in some of the products we put on our skin.  Research has shown that long-term use not only irritates the skin but causes cancer in the blood.  PEGs, the petroleum-based substance is present not only in cosmetics products but also in our food. 

PEGs become increasingly toxic due to contaminants that are added to them such as ethylene oxide and 1,4 dioxane which may lead to debilitating diseases as well as heavy metal toxicity.  Further, Coal tar dyes, TEA and Triclosan are also considered hazardous to human health to the extent that some are even banned in some countries or placed on Government watch lists. 

While the debate will certainly continue where these substances are concerned, it is up to us to advocate for our own health and continue to research to make informed decisions regarding product choices.  So, with all that was said….Are you skintimate yet!

You can read more about taking care of the skin as well as ingredients that can help to protect, maintain, and give it that glow in these posts below. You can also download a skincare guide for ease of reference.

• Five (5) natural oils to seriously consider for your skincare arsenal – Grapeseed oil is one of them!
• Clay is for beauty – Three (3) must have clays for your Skincare and Beauty Regimen!
• A Skincare Routine Guide
• Benzene – What is it? And why should it not be in our Hair or Skincare Products – Much more in our Foods?

References

• Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR). 2008. Toxicological profile for Formaldehyde. (Draft for Public Comment). Atlanta, GA: U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, Public Health Service. https://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/phs/phs.asp?id=218&tid=39
• Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR). 2012. Toxicological profile for 1,4 Dioxane. Atlanta, GA: U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, Public Health Service. Retrieved May 12, 2019 from https://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxprofiles/tp.asp?id=955&tid=199
• Chen, J., Chang Ahn, K., Gee, N., Ahmed, M., Duleba, A., Zhao, L., Gee, S., Hammock, B., Lasley, B. (2008). Triclocarban enhances testosterone action: A new type of endocrine disruptor? Endocrinology, Volume 149, Issue 3, pp.1173–1179,https://doi.org/10.1210/en.2007-1057
• “Coal Tar.”Definitions net. STANDS4 LLC, 2019. Web. 19 May 2019. <https://www.definitions.net/definition/Coal+Tar>.
• Coal Tar Pitch (2016). International Agency for the Research on Cancer – IARC.
• Cosmetics Ingredient Review – CIR, 2006. CIR Compendium, containing abstracts, discussions and conclusions or CIR cosmetic ingredient safety assessments. Washing DC.
• Dalefield, R. (2017). Industrial and Occupational Toxicants. Veterinary Toxicology,  pp 333-341, Elsevier Inc. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-420227-6.00017-7
• Dye C, Schlabach M, Green J, Remberger M, Kaj L, Palm-Cousins A, Brorström-Lundén E. (2007) Bronopol, resorcinol, m-cresol and triclosan in the Nordic environment. Nordic Council of Ministers, Copenhagen.TemaNord: 585.
• Formaldehyde (n.d) In Dictionary.com. Retrieved May 10, 2019 from https://www.dictionary.com/browse/formaldehyde
• Formaldehyde (n.d), Illinois Department of Public Health, Cancer In Illinois. Retrieved May 12, 2019 from http://www.idph.state.il.us/cancer/factsheets/formaldehyde.htm
• Formaldehyde and Cancer Risk (n.d), National Cancer Institute. Retrieved May 12, 2019 from https://www.cancer.gov/about-cancer/causes-prevention/risk/substances/formaldehyde/formaldehyde-fact-sheet
• Formaldehyde (n.d) In New World Encyclopedia. Retrieved May 12, 2019 from  https://www.newworldencyclopedia.org/entry/Formaldehyde
• Jang, H. J., Shin, C. Y., & Kim, K. B. (2015). Safety Evaluation of Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) Compounds for Cosmetic Use. Toxicological research, 31(2), 105–136. doi:10.5487/TR.2015.31.2.105
• Knop, A., & Pilato, L.A (1989). Comprehensive Polymer Science and Supplements. Retrieved May 2019 from https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/earth-and-planetary-sciences/formaldehyde
• National Toxicology Program (2011). Formaldehyde. In Report on Carcinogens, 12^th National Toxicology Program, Research Triangle Park, NC.
• National Toxicology Program (2011). In Report on Carcinogens, 12^th Retrieved May 11, 2019 from http://ntp.niehs.nih.gov/ntp/roc/twelfth/profiles/Nitrosamines.pdf.
• National Toxicology Program (2016). Report on Carcinogens, 16^th National Toxicology Program, Research Triangle Park, NC.

•  Pershagen, G. (1997). What Risk? Interpretation of epidemiological studies with modestly elevated relative risks. https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/epidemiological-study

• Roberts, L. (2014). “Coal Tar” in Wexler, Phillip. Encyclopedia of Toxicology, 3^rd edn Oxford Academic Press, pp. 993-995.

• Roelofzen, J.H, Aben, K.H, Oldenhef, U. T, Coenraads, P.G. Kiemeney, L. (2010). “No increased risk of cancer after coal tar treatment in products with Psoriasis or Eczema. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 130 (4), pp. 953-961.

• Sing, R, Goyal. N, Kaur, N. (2015). USE of Coal Tar. International Journal of Civil Engineering (SSRG-IJCE) – volume 2 Issue 3.
• Word Origin and History for formaldehyde (n.d) Online Etymology Dictionary. Retrieved May 10, 2019 from https://www.etymonline.com/search?q=formaldehyde