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Niacinamide has been one of the skincare industry’s favoured cosmeceutical ingredients for varied reasons. One such is its anti-aging effects. While we cannot hold back the hands of time (ah man!), using scientifically proven ingredients in our daily skincare routine, can certainly help to ‘ward off’ some of the signs of aging, which is a worthy consideration for any skincare routine.

Niacinamide or Nicotinamide is reportedly used in about thirty (30) cosmetic formulations (Matts et. al. 2002). This includes skin moisturizers, cleansers, shampoos and even tonics. In this article, we are going to explore its skincare benefits, particularly as it relates to anti-aging and acne.  Let’s discuss!

You can read more about Anti-aging skincare ingredients in these articles:

• • Glycolic acid, the Sting of Beauty!
  • Aging like a Boss!
  • Hyaluronic acid – Anti-aging hero or fad?

The Discussion

Niacinamide or Nicotinamide is a physiologically active form of the compound niacin or Vitamin B3, a water-soluble nutrient (Matts et al. 2002). You may sometimes see reference to it as 3-pyridine carboxamide, due to its use in the United States decades ago to fight the nutritional disease ‘Pellagra’ (Matts et al. 2002; Rajakumar, 2000).

However, through isolation, dermatologists have realized its therapeutic benefits to the skin as well as how it manages certain skin conditions, such as acne and skin pigmentation.  Pigmentation is an issue that is usually ascribed to dull and premature aging of the skin (Matts. et. al. 2002).   Research has shown that niacinamide can help to modify the epidermal surface of the skin which can help to correct the homeostatic balance of the skin (Matts. et. al. 2002).  

Niacinamide is also purported to be able to assist with skin aging and the brightening of the skin (Hakozaki et al. 2002; Bissett et. al. 2005; Otte et al. 2005).  As such, treating the skin with niacinamide could result in a positive effect on the dermal compartment of the skin, which can significantly help with skin aging and photodamaged skin.

In this article, we will be discussing five (5) benefits of adding niacinamide to your skincare regimen, especially, for anti-aging.  The benefits include the production of collagen, which our skin loses as we get older, its skin brightening effects, its ability to enhance the barriers of the skin, the management of acne and its purported ability to manage the overall appearance of skin aging.  We will also explore any reported side effects when using this ingredient on the skin and the best concentration to yield optimal results.

You can read more about Anti-aging skincare ingredients in these articles:

• • Glycolic acid, the Sting of Beauty!

  • Aging like a Boss!

  • Hyaluronic acid – Anti-aging hero or fad?

Five(5) ‘Must know’ anti-aging Benefits of Niacinamide:

• Managing the signs of skin aging.
• Brightening of the skin.
• Enhancing the barriers of the skin.
• Collagen Production.
• Managing Acne.

Niacinamide and Skin Aging

As the skin ages, it becomes noticeably thin, dry, blotchy and has fine lines and wrinkles which are all signs of aging, but sometimes, prematurely. However, clinical studies have shown that niacinamide has antiaging effects on the skin, on its own or when it is combined with other active ingredients (Bissett et. al. 2004; Bissett et. al. 2005).  

In a fifty (50) participants, a double-blind placebo-controlled split-face study by Bissett et. al. 2004; 2005), it was found that a moisturizing product with five (5%) percent niacinamide was applied to the skin for Twelve (12) weeks was able to improve a broad array of some of the signs of the appearance of skin aging such as fine lines and wrinkles, blotchiness, hyper-pigmentation, the rough texture and the elasticity of the skin.

Another study by (Chiu et. al. 2007) using 0.03% Kinetin and four (4%) percent niacinamide was shown to reduce pore size, wrinkles as well as the unevenness of the skin.  This mixture was applied to one side of the face, twice daily. This study was a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face study with over Twenty-seven (27) volunteers.  The study lasted for Twelve (12) weeks as well.  However, an Eight (8) week study using just four (4%) percent niacinamide in a moisturizing solution did result in a reduction of wrinkles and skin roughness for its participants.  This study was conducted by (Kawada et. al. 2008) and was also a randomized, placebo-controlled, split-face study.

Niacinamide and Skin Brightening

Studies have shown that niacinamide may be able to lighten skin tone, hence one of the reasons it is usually recommended for treating spots and hyperpigmentation. Its skin-brightening or lightening effects were observed in a study by Hakozaki et al. (2002) to examine its impact on the depigmentation of human skin. 

In this randomized split-face, double-blind paired clinical study with Eighteen (18) Japanese women, who had several types of brown hyperpigmentation issues.  The participants were provided with a moisturizer containing five (5%) percent niacinamide to apply to the skin, twice daily for eight (8) weeks.  The participants who applied the test moisturizer which had five (5%) per cent niacinamide experienced a significant decrease in total hyperpigmentation areas as opposed to the group that applied the control moisturizer (with no niacinamide).

This result was confirmed by another study conducted by Greatens et. al. (2005) with Thirty-nine (39) participants.  This study which was also a double-blinded, randomized, vehicle-controlled, split-face clinical trial used both a test moisturizer with five (5%) per cent niacinamide and another without.  The group that used the five (5%) per cent niacinamide–containing moisturizer, experienced a higher reduction in hyperpigmentation spots than the vehicle moisturizer, just after four (4) and eight (8) weeks of application.  Notably, a two (2%) percent niacinamide moisturizer did not seem to show any statistically significant effect as compared to the vehicle moisturizer.

Niacinamide was also shown to be effective in reducing the severity of melasma in patients who suffered from the condition. In this study though, both four (4%) percent niacinamide and four (4%) per cent hydroquinone were used. One was applied to the right side of the face, and the other, to the left.  Both ingredients were found to be effective in decreasing melasma.  However, most of the patients who had used the hydroquinone were said to experience what the researchers called ‘good-to-excellent’ results when compared to the niacinamide group, with only Forty-four (44%) percent experiencing the same (Navarrete-Solis et. al. 2011).

Superior results were seen though when niacinamide was added to other active ingredients. One such was a study by (Hakozaki et. al. 2006) with a gel-containing two (2%) percent ascorbyl glucoside and 3.5% niacinamide. This study, according to the researchers, reportedly saw participants experiencing ‘significantly superior results.’  As such, the researchers contended that using active ingredients as well as methods to increase skin absorption is crucial for optimal results

Niacinamide and Skin Barrier Enhancement

Aging changes the structural and functional integrity of the barriers to the skin (Choi et. al. 2019).  As such, research has shown that niacinamide could up-regulate the synthesis of ceramide, which is a major component of the skin barriers (Tanno et al.2000).  It was also shown to improve other components of the skin barriers such as free fatty acid and cholesterol (Tanno et al.2000).

A two (2%) percent niacinamide moisturizer was found to improve skin barriers in participants that suffered from rosacea (Draelos et. al. 2005) and was also found to enhance epidermal differentiation as well as other barriers in photoaged skin (Jacobson et. al. 2007).  As such, niacinamide was noted as effective in enhancing the structural and functional integrity of the skin, which protects it from external threats, and loss of water and maintains homeostasis and thus, the signs of aging.

Niacinamide and Collagen Production

Collagen secretion decreases as we age. This reduction will affect the plump-looking appearance of the skin. Niacinamide and its derivative have been shown to increase the expression of collagen in the skin of both collage types 1, 3 and 5 (Ratcliffe et. al. 2009; Philips et. al. 2018).  Niacinamide was also shown to improve tissue regeneration by increasing the proliferation of fibroblast collagen synthesis and even skin wounds (Ashkani Esfahani et. al. 2015).

Both the supplementation of niacinamide and topical application were shown to be effective in collagen production.  This was observed in a study by Oblong et al. (2001), where it was found that the supplementation of niacinamide (no particular percentage stated) was shown to significantly increase total collagen secreted by fifty-four (54%) percent.  As such, research suggests that niacinamide would have a positive impact on the dermal compartment of the skin, which can be particularly crucial in aged skin or those with photodamaged skin.

Niacinamide and Acne

Niacinamide has been shown to have an anti-inflammatory effect on the skin, which helps to prevent bacteria and acne vulgaris. This was observed in a study by Shalita et al. (1995).  In this study, it was found that a four (4%) percent gel with Papulex, which is a commercial form of niacinamide, was found to reduce the severity of acne due to its potent anti-inflammatory activities.

The study was conducted over an Eight (8) week period, with Eighty-two (82%) percent of the participants reported experiencing an improvement in acne or a significant reduction in acne severity.  This was especially due to its effects in reducing total sebaceous lipid, which is an important implication for acne.  As such, researchers contend that topical niacinamide could play a significant role in the treatment of acne, especially, in its severity (Biedermann et. al. 2002).

Are there any side effects of using Niacinamide on the Skin?

Niacinamide is usually considered very safe both when taken internally or when used topically on the skin.  However, research has shown that long-term use at very high doses internally, could cause side effects such as liver or other organ damage (Hwang et. al. 2020). As it relates to the skin, formulations of five (5%) percent or less, have been shown to be well-tolerated by the skin (Wohlrab and Kreft, 2014).  However, even concentrations of up to ten (10%) per cent reportedly did not cause any stinging sensation, flushing or irritation (Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2005). 

Nonetheless, our skin is unique, so while one person may not experience any adverse effects, another might.  As such, each person’s experience will be dependent on their particular skin condition at the time of application.  Therefore, it is recommended that you always do a patch test before applying any cosmetic products to the skin, especially those with certain active ingredients. 

It is also recommended that you consult with your doctor should you experience any severe effects.  Remember, the higher the concentration doesn’t necessarily mean the product will have the best or fastest results.  Most times, low concentrations will gradually yield awesome results. So, take it easy!

Illustrative Summary

Here is a summary of the Five (5) Anti-aging Benefits of NIACINAMIDE for Skincare.

Let’s Sum Up!

The skin is an external, visible, organ. As such, its health from an aesthetic perspective is very important.  Niacinamide has been proven to be a part of the list of ingredients that can help to make the skin aesthetically appealing by helping to build collagen and ceramide which help to enhance the skin’s structure and functionality.

It has also been shown to manage skin aging, acne, and the brightening of the skin. These benefits are especially crucial due to the many factors that impact the skin daily, for example, UV rays, environmental toxins and poor diet.

We do not have to look old as we age, as there are many ingredients that can make us age gracefully, without going under the knife or emptying our bank accounts. Here is niacinamide. Why not explore it as part of your overall skincare routine, especially, antiaging and continue to love the skin you are in?

Have you ever used niacinamide before? How was it? Share it nuh! So, with all that was said…Are you Skintimate Yet?

You can read more about Anti-aging skincare ingredients in these articles:

• • • Glycolic acid, the Sting of Beauty!

    • Aging like a Boss!

    • Hyaluronic acid – Anti-aging hero or fad?

    • Love the Skin you’re In!

Editor’s Note: Article updated on July 9, 2024.

References

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