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We may have heard about the importance of this antioxidant powerhouse – Vitamin C in direct discussions or even via the media.   However, most of the discussions surrounding the benefits of vitamin C have mostly been linked to its oral intake.  But, did you know that this superfood is an excellent ingredient, topically? Yea, Yea! Ok, I just felt like a little girl again challenging one of my little friends (head roll and all) to a newfound knowledge (those were the days).  Well, back to the topic at hand.

Vitamin C is considered one of the most abundant antioxidants in the human skin (Telang, 2013).  It belongs to the list of water-soluble vitamins like that of our B-vitamins.  Therefore, it is soluble in water and must be consumed daily to reap its benefits as it is not stored in the body long term.  Therefore, our body uses what it needs and gets rid of the excess.

Topically, it is noted to be able to assist with the prevention of acne, increase collagen production and the big one, the reduction of wrinkles.  Therefore, it is an excellent vitamin for both the inside and outside.  You can read more on the skin and how to take care of it here. Let’s Discuss!

• Love the skin you’re in!

The Discussion

Vitamin C is a water-soluble vitamin that is naturally present in most of our foods such as citrus fruits, broccoli, green leafy vegetables and papaya.  It is also available as a dietary supplement in the form of L- Ascorbic acid which is the most natural form of vitamin C.   Vitamin C is also able to be synthesized by most plants and animals (Talakoub et al. 2009).  As such, it is an essential nutrient in the human diet (LiY and Schellhom, 2007).

As part of the diet, vitamin C is an essential nutrient that is responsible for the growth and repair of tissue, protein metabolism, and synthesis of collagen as well as providing support for certain neurotransmitters (Chambial et al. 2013.).   Research has shown that this nutrient can regenerate other antioxidants in the human body such as vitamin E which further intensifies its biological benefits (Jacob and Sotoudeh, 2002).

The highest concentration of vitamin C in the skin is in the dermis and epidermis (Rhie, et al. 2001).  The dermis is made up of collagen and elastin in the second layer of the skin and is about 20-30 times thicker than the epidermis.  On the other hand, the epidermis is the outer layer of the skin, the part that we can feel and touch.  It is also that layer which gives the skin its tone.  As we age, the level of vitamin C in the skin declines due to several factors which include excessive sun exposure, diet and environmental pollutants. 

Vitamin C is normally transported to the skin via the bloodstream.  As such, oral supplementation of this crucial vitamin increases its effectiveness and benefits on the skin (Steiling, et al. 2007.).  The topical benefits of vitamin C that will be discussed in this article are – acne prevention, photodamage/photoaging, oxidative stress, collagen production as well as its effect on hyper-pigmentation and dry skin.

Six (6) Skincare Benefits of Vitamin C:

• Acne prevention.
• Helping with photodamaged skin.
• May help the skin produce more collagen.
• It may help to prevent oxidative stress on the skin.
• It may help to manage hyperpigmentation.
• It may help with dry skin.

Vitamin C and Acne Prevention

Acne is caused by a variety of issues, one major one being the build-up of bacteria on the skin.  Over time, this can result in skin inflammation and thus acne and other conditions such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis (Furue, 2017; Han, et al. 2017).   Vitamin C has been used in most cases in the treatment regimen of acne due to its anti-inflammatory properties (Traikovich, 1999).  As such, it is considered useful in the treatment of acne, rosacea as well as hyperpigmentation (Traikovich, 1999; Farris, 2009).  

In addition, outside of Vitamin C, other treatments have long been explored in the management of this type of skin disorder. These include the supplementation of omega-3 fatty acids along with vitamins A and E to help improve the skin lipid barriers in the fight against inflammation (Pappas, et al. 2016).

Additionally,  studies have shown that individuals with skin inflammation have been found to have lower levels of vitamin C in the skin when compared to other persons who were unaffected (Leveque, et al. 2004; Shin, et al. 2016).  As such, vitamin C is often paired with nutritional components in the treatment and management of certain skin conditions, including acne (Pappas, et al. 2016; Liakou, et al. 2013).

Vitamin C and Photodamage/Photo-aging Skin

Photodamaged/photoaging skin is characterized by changes in the skin such as roughness, fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation and freckles. Vitamin C helps to protect the skin from the damaging rays of the sun due to its antioxidant properties (Darr et al. 1992).  As such, when the body is exposed to excessive sunlight over a long period, the proteins that are transported by vitamin C increase in the keratinocytes (skin cells on the outermost layer, the ones that we see) as a response to the UV rays.  

This automatic reaction prompts the body to produce more vitamin C (Kang, et al. 2007).  Therefore, we must consume foods that are rich in vitamin C daily, especially, if we live in tropical climates.

Research has shown that high consumption of dietary vitamin C was positively associated with better skin appearance as well as a reduction in skin wrinkles (Cosgrove, et al. 2007; Purba and Kouris-Blazos, 2001).  However, using vitamin C topically for a minimum of twelve (12) weeks has also been shown to have a positive effect on wrinkle production (Raschke, et al. 2004; Humbert, et al. 2003).

L-ascorbic acid, the chemically active form of vitamin C is considered the most effective form for topical application as it is easily absorbed by the skin (Traikovich, 1999).  Other forms of vitamin C that are used in topical concentrations include Ascorbate phosphate and Ascorbyl palmitate.  Ascorbate phosphate, while being stable, is not easily absorbed by the skin (Pinnell, et al. 2001).  The same holds for Ascorbyl palmitate, which is also stable and has been shown to have some toxic effects on the skin (Meves, et al. 2002).   

Research also denotes, that magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, a stable and absorbable form of vitamin C is also effective at hydrating the skin and increasing collagen production (Talakoub, et al. 2009; Farris, 2009).  Therefore, you must check the ingredient list of your vitamin C skincare products to ensure that it has the best and most effective form.

Further, to prevent or minimize photodamaging or photoaging skin, it is important that we reduce excessive sun exposure, especially over long periods.  One must also ensure that sunscreen is worn when spending time in the sun, especially one that has been combined with topical antioxidants, like vitamins C and E.

Vitamin C and Collagen Production in the Skin

Collagen is the most abundant protein in mammals and is responsible for providing structure to the muscles, connective tissue and skin.  As such, it is greatly needed by the skin for elasticity, and joint and bone health (Merriam-webster.com).  Research has shown that vitamin C influences the synthesis of collagen in the skin which in turn stimulates collagen expression (Traikovich, 1999). Studies have also shown that the topical application of vitamin C increases the production of collagen in both young and aged human skin (Farris, 2009; Burke, 2007).

Vitamin C and Oxidative stress on the skin

Oxidative stress occurs due to the skin’s excessive exposure to the sun.  This causes the number of oxidants in the skin to exceed its antioxidant defence system capabilities.  As such, if the body does not have sufficient vitamin C to respond to the excessive ultraviolet rays (UV rays), then the body goes through ‘stresses’ which then leads to skin inflammation along with other skin conditions including collagen breakdown, which of course affects the skin elasticity as well as wrinkle formation (Farris, 2009) as well as cancer (Kruk and Duchnik, 2014). 

Therefore, the presence of oxidative stress in the body will ignite a series of unpleasant mediators that will lead to inflammation and the aging of the skin (Farris, 2009), and ultimately, photodamaged or photoaging skin.

Vitamin C and Hyperpigmentation of the Skin

Hyperpigmentation of the skin occurs when areas of the skin become darker in colour than the normal surrounding skin.  The dark patches are excess melanin deposits due to excessive sunlight.  Melanin is the dark pigment that occurs in the hair, skin and iris of the eyes when it becomes exposed to sunlight (Dictionary.com).  Vitamin C has the potential to reduce dark spots due to its mild skin-lightening effects that are caused by the reduction of melanin production and melanin oxidation (Kameyama, et al. 1996).

You can also check out this other ingredient that has proven to help with hyperpigmentation.

• Kojic Acid – What it is, Benefits and How it Can Help with Hyperpigmentation!

Vitamin C and Skin Dryness

Skin dryness is a condition that affects most people at some time or another.  Many factors can contribute to dryness of the skin, including the use of medication, diet and excessive sun.  However, studies have shown that Vitamin C, when taken in high concentration is capable of hydrating the skin (Cosgrove, et al. 2007).   As such, vitamin C will work to promote lipid barriers, which affect water loss (Ponec, et al. 1997). 

While some studies on the effects of vitamin C on skin dryness can be somewhat contradictory, research by Traikovich, 1999 shows that vitamin C can help dry skin by reducing skin roughness.   Nonetheless, research by Campos, et al. 2008 has proven no significant effect on skin dryness.

How to use Vitamin C topically

Vitamin C is mostly available topically in the form of serums, creams and facial cleansers.  However, your vitamin C products must contain a stable form of vitamin C such as L-ascorbic acid or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.  These forms are highly stable and as such, easily absorbable by the skin. Studies have also shown that vitamin C works best with ferulic acid and other antioxidants such as vitamins E and A.

Illustrative Summary

Here is an illustrative summary of the six (6) Skincare Benefits of VITAMIN C  and some food sources and words of caution.

Let’s Sum Up!

Vitamin C is one of those vitamins that is great for the skin both internally and topically.  In fact, it is the most abundant nutrient in the skin.  Research has shown that its application, especially in concentrations of at least 10% can improve the overall look and appearance of the skin. Other benefits of vitamin C topically include helping to reverse and reduce photodamaged or photoaging skin, oxidative stress, collagen production to keep the skin supple and wrinkle-free, hyperpigmentation as well as dry skin.

Nonetheless, you must try to maintain a healthy diet and eat a lot of fruits and vegetables that are high in vitamin C, such as broccoli, lemons, papaya and green leafy vegetables.  For your topical application, ensure that your choice of products contains a stable and absorbable form of vitamin C such as L-ascorbic acid or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. In addition, ensure that you use a good sunscreen as vitamin C will make the skin more sensitive to sunlight. Remember, we are working to improve the skin, not further damage it (no way!). 

Research also shows that vitamin C is best applied after exposure to the sun.  I like to apply or use any vitamin C-related products at night.  In addition, try not to expose the product to light as it will oxidize (turn yellowish).  As it relates to usage, research has shown that vitamin C can be used regularly on its own or as part of any regular or anti-aging skincare regimen, which may include Retin-A (tretinoin) or other antioxidant products.  Further, be careful when applying it around the eyes as it may sting (ouch!). Let’s practice beauty from the inside and out! So, with all that was said….Are you skintimate yet!…

You can read more on how to create a simple skincare routine here to make vitamin C a part of your skincare arsenal. 

• A Simplified Skin Care Routine – That’s Works!

You can also check out these ingredients that can provide similar benefits to the skin as well as help with anti-aging.

• Lactic acid and the skin – Here are Five (5) benefits you are just going to love.

• Vitamin E and the skin – Here are 3 major benefits worth knowing!

Editor’s Note: Article updated on July 9, 2024.

References

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