TABLE OF CONTENTS

The truth is, we are all aging, it’s inevitable and just a part of the normal cycle of life.  However, we all want to look vibrant and youthful as the clock continues to tick (sounds counter-intuitive, right?).  Well, no one wants to walk around looking twice their age or with rough-looking skin (some of us do not even want to look our age at times 😊).  As such, skincare products or ingredients, particularly those in the anti-aging realm, will always be sought after and appraised.  One such ingredient is hyaluronic acid.

Hyaluronic acid is actually a carbohydrate that is naturally produced by the body.  It is considered clear in colour and very lubricating.  The greatest concentration of hyaluronic acid can be found in the skin, eye sockets, joints as well as other bodily tissues as it helps the body to retain its collagen levels which helps to improve the moisture level of the skin and thus its elasticity and flexibility.

One main reason for its fame is its purported anti-aging benefits to the skin due to its hydrating properties.  As such, its consistent use is said to promote glowing skin as well as improve the skin’s texture and appearance.  It is also touted as being able to soften fine lines and wrinkles.  But, is it worth the hype?  Or is it just another fad soon to be forgotten in the world of shelved cosmetics and skincare?

Well, the Oxford Dictionary define ‘hero’ as someone who is noted for courageous acts or of noble character while the Webster Dictionary defines the word as a person admired for a particular achievement. On the other hand, a ‘fad’ is a short-lived enthusiasm that is shared by many, a ‘craze’ or something that becomes popular but does not remain that way for long.   As per this article, we will think of hyaluronic acid as it relates to being a ‘hero’ like that ‘thing’ that is admired for a particular achievement and in terms of a ‘fad’ something that will most likely disappear and not live up to the status proclaimed.

So, what category does hyaluronic acid fall into?  We will decide after exploring its scientific benefits.  Let’s discuss!

The Discussion

The aging of the skin is a phenomenon that is still not quite fully understood by scientists and academia as it is considered a result of two (2) biological processes – intrinsic in nature and unpreventable.  This level of uncertainty has been the main driver and influence in the anti-aging world which can be aptly characterized as a very vibrant and evolving one with really no clear end in sight.   The again of the skin is also linked to a loss of moisture which in itself, causes a chain reaction of many other biological processes.

A major molecule that is involved in skin moisture is hyaluronan or hyaluronic acid, which has a distinctive capacity to bind and retain water molecules (Papakonstantinou, Eleni et al. 2012).   A loss of moisture coupled with the loss of collagen, causes the skin to lose volume, firmness and elasticity which then leads to skin sagging (Gold, 2007).  

To this extent, hyaluronic acids as well as other anti-aging stalwarts such as retin-A, glycolic acid, matrixyl etc. are revered in the anti-aging world as ingredients that can help in slowly rolling back the clock and thus quietly dismantling that acceleration effect. 

According to Sciencedirect.com, hyaluronic acid functions in the body as an agent that increases the viscosity of the fluids in the body and thus acts as a lubricant.  In the body, it binds to water which gives it a stiff viscous quality and in a gel format, it is used for orthopaedic and eye surgery (Choulis, 2014). As such, its touted ability to provide maximum hydration to the skin is a true and concise one.  This water-binding ability is what makes it a well-known or sought-after active ingredient for cosmetics products, as it helps the skin to retain moisture, elasticity and turgor (Pavicic et al. 2011).

In cosmetics products, hyaluronic acid is added to products such as serums, moisturizers, creams, conditioners and shampoos and even in bath oils.  This is due in part to its moisturizing benefits as well as its purported ability to reduce wrinkle depth, improve skin firmness and texture, reduce pore size as well as improve the overall skin barrier function. (ŠMejkalová, Daniela & Huerta Angeles, Gloria & Ehlova, Tereza. (2015).

Additionally, a major benefit of having hyaluronic acid as part of a skincare routine is that it can facilitate topical drug absorption and as such, dermal delivery of biomacromolecules (Witting et al, 2015).   Every substance on the planet is made up of molecules, including the cells of our body.  These molecules are called biomolecules. As such, biomacromolecules are the name given to complex or larger biomolecules. In addition to enhancing skin hydration and elasticity, hyaluronic acid is also said to be able to assist with the healing of wounds when applied topically (Gualdi et al. 2019). 

Nonetheless, research contends that the quality of hyaluronic acid in the skin decreases gradually as we age.  As such, individuals of say ages Fifty (50), Sixty-five (65) and Seventy-five (75) years of age are said to have only about one-quarter (¼ )  of the amount of hyaluronic acid in their skin when compared to someone way younger, say, Nineteen (19) years of age (Longas et al. 1987). 

As such, in this article, we will be discussing the four (4) major scientifically proven benefits of hyaluronic acid namely, its effects on skin moisture and hydration, photo-aging, fine lines and wrinkles as well as its effects on wound healing, which is not only beneficial in the anti-aging world but one’s health in general.   

The article will also explore what to look out for when choosing your hyaluronic acid products. This will be explained in terms of ‘molecular weight,’ as well as answer the question that was posed – Is hyaluronic acid an Anti-aging Hero or Fad?

You can read more on some of the best ingredients to have in your anti-aging products and which to avoid in these articles:

• • Aging like a Boss – 5 Skincare Ingredients that are ‘must haves’ in your anti-aging Arsenal
  • Glycolic acid – The Sting of Beauty

Four (4) main Anti-aging Benefits of Hyaluronic Acid:

• Skin moisture and hydration
• Photodamaged/Pre-mature aging.
• Smoothing fine lines and wrinkles.
• Wound healing.

Hyaluronic Acid and Skin Moisture and Hydration

Aside from wrinkles, one of the manifestations of aging skin is a loss of volume and firmness which is largely due to the degradation of collagen and hyaluronic acid.  This degeneration of the skin then gradually leads to skin wrinkling and sagging (Campiche et al. 2019). 

Additionally, aging skin suffers from dryness, which research often attributes to chronic inflammation (Hashizume, 2004).  A condition that is classically dubbed ‘inflammaging’ in some scientific circles (Franceschi et al. 2007).  This is because hyaluronic acid is the principal extra-cellular matrix component in the skin. As such, its absence in both the epidermis and dermis in which it resides will certainly lead to the loss of volume and elasticity in the skin as well as skin hydration (Oh et al. 2011).

To this extent, research has shown that hyaluronic acid formulations cannot only reduce fine lines and wrinkles but also improve skin hydration and overall skin rejuvenation (Bukhari et al. 2018).  As such, it is warranted to be used as a prime component in cosmetics products.

The moisturizing effects of hyaluronic have been declared in many studies; one such was an observational study by Pavicic et al in 2011 with Seventy-six (76) female participants.  The participant’s age ranges from Thirty (30) years to Sixty (60) years of age.  All the participants topically applied a 0.1% hyaluronan formulation of varying molecular weights namely, Fifty (50), One Hundred and Thirty (130), Thee Hundred (300), Eight Hundred (800) and Two Thousand (2000) daltons or kDa, respectively. 

The substance was promoted as an anti-wrinkle treatment and was applied twice daily by the participants to the area of interest for Sixty (60) days.  The results showed that all hyaluronic acid formulations of 0.1% showed a significant improvement in skin hydration and elasticity.  However, hyaluronic formulation of a low molecular weight resulted in a greater reduction of wrinkle depth, a factor the researchers attributed to better penetration abilities of low molecular weight hyaluronic formulations.

This was also confirmed by an 8-week study conducted by Jegasothy et al (2014).  The study comprises Thirty-three (33) women with an average age of Forty-five (45) years.  In this study, it was found that the topical application of lotion, serums and creams with hyaluronic acid (no particular concentration was highlighted) contributed to significant improvement in skin hydration, elasticity, roughness and wrinkle depth.

Hyaluronic acid and Photodamages/Pre-mature aging

Premature aging or Photodamaged skin is characterised by skin changes such as fine and coarse wrinkles, roughness, freckles and pigmentation, changes that usually occur due to prolonged exposure to the sun (Samuel et al. 2015).  These frightening features of the skin are enough to send anyone into a frenzy on the cosmetics aisle.  However, According to (Uitto, 2011), about Eighty percent (80%) of facial skin aging is associated with overexposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays.  

According to the researcher, UV radiation damage will first cause a mild form of wound healing which is associated with an increase in dermal hyaluronic acid.  As such, even as little as five (5) minutes of UV exposure can cause enhanced deposition of hyaluronic acid,  which indicates that UV radiation can induce skin damage rapidly, an observation that was made in a study with nude mice (Stern & Maibach, 2008).

Hyaluronic acid has been proven to play a multi-faceted role in regulating numerous biological processes of the body such as skin repair, wound healing, tissue regeneration as well as inflammation.  No wonder it has become a sought-after ingredient in cosmetics products as well as nutricosmetic products (Bukhari et al. 2018). 

Research has shown that hyaluronic acid-based formulations as presented in product types such as creams, gels, dermal fillers, lotions serums etc., display remarkable anti-wrinkle, face rejuvenation and overall anti-aging effects on the skin.

In addition, products with a particularly high concentration of hyaluronic acid were also observed to improve skin hydration, collagen as well as elastin stimulation even better (Bukhari et al. 2018).  When we are young, hyaluronic acid in the body helps to facilitate the holding of collagen and elastin in the proper balance. 

However, as we get older, and become more exposed to the sun without adequate protection, these connections with hyaluronic acid become absent and hence contribute to the loss of collagen and elastin fibers and photodamaged skin, which then lead to the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and other signs of skin aging (Bukhari et al. 2018). 

Hyaluronic Acid and Skin wrinkles

As indicated, in the previous sections above, as we age, the hyaluronic acid content in the skin degrades to the degeneration of collagen and elastin. Several other factors can also influence the formation of wrinkles including certain illnesses.  The matter is further complicated by the years of prolonged exposure to the sun, without adequate protection which leads to photo-damaged, premature aging or sun-damaged skin which leads to other issues such as fine lines and wrinkles, and dry and rough skin.  

In addition, research shows that the degradation of collagen and hyaluronic acid caused by UV damage is also a cause of crow’s feet. However, mounting research has shown that hyaluronic acid, a natural carbohydrate that the body produces can significantly help to thwart this unwelcome feature. 

In the study conducted by Pavicic et al. (2011) with the Seventy-six (76) participants, the researchers observed that hyaluronic acid formation of low molecular weight, not only improved skin hydration and elasticity but was also able to reduce wrinkle depth.  Further, the participants of the study were those observed to have periorbital wrinkles. 

Periorbital wrinkles are those wrinkles around the eyes and lips.   Additionally, the hyaluronic formulation was applied twice daily for Sixty (60) days.  The molecular weights of the cream formulations were Fifty (50), One Hundred and Thirty (130), Three Hundred (300), Eight Hundred (800) and Two Thousand (2000) respectively.

These findings were further confirmed in a study conducted by Poetschke et al (2016) with Twenty (20) participants.  The participants were assigned into Four (4) groups with each group assigned a different anti-aging cream with a hyaluronic acid formation (no particular percentage was highlighted). 

The participants used the products over a Three (3) month period.  The results showed a significant reduction in the depth of both perioral and orbital wrinkles in all the groups, irrespective of the product brand or formulation.  Perioral wrinkles are those surrounding the mouth and nose area while orbital wrinkles are those surrounding the eyes.

Further, in a study conducted by Taylor et al (2009), it was found that hyaluronic acid in a gel formulation was shown to be remarkably safe for the correction of facial wrinkles in patients of colour or those with darker skin tones.

Besides the topical application of hyaluronic acid products, research has shown that the oral intake of hyaluronic acid of molecular weight of 2k and 300k had a significant effect on crow’s feet wrinkles.  This was observed in a study of Sixty (60) Japanese male and female participants between the ages of Twenty-two (22) years to Fifty-nine (59) years old.  The participants were randomly assigned a hyaluronic acid molecular weight of 2k or 300k at 120 mg/day or a placebo.  The participants’ skin wrinkles were evaluated by image analysis as well as their overall skin condition was evaluated. 

Over the twelve (12) week duration of the study, it was found that the wrinkles were significantly diminished at the eight (8) week marker of the study when compared with the placebo group.  Additionally, skin lustre and suppleness were significantly improved during the Twelve (12) week duration of the study. 

As such, the study concluded that hyaluronic acid concentrations of both 2k and 300k prevented skin wrinkles and improved the overall condition of the skin.  However, results will differ based on the molecular weight.  Therefore, the lower the molecular weight, the better the results will be as the product will be able to penetrate the dermis of the skin (Oe et al. 2017). 

Nonetheless, researchers are still unable to confirm if the anti-wrinkle effect of oral hyaluronic acid products would be different based on the molecular weight or the amount taken. Nonetheless, the consensus is that the bioavailability of hyaluronic acid will differ based on the molecular weight (Cyphert et al. 2015).

Hyaluronic Acid and Wound Healing

In addition to its benefits on skin appearance and wrinkles, hyaluronic acid is also known to help with wound healing and as such, has been used for treating conditions such as mouth sores, bites and general skin wounds.  Hyaluronic acid has been shown to play a major role in the tissue regeneration process and thus, able to regulate specific hyaluronic acid receptors, inflammation as well as cellular migration which are all significant phases in the wound healing process (Litwiniuk et al, 2016).  

To this extent, hyaluronic acid in the form of hydrogel, scaffolds, creams, gels etc. has been shown to have a wide range of pharmacological activities including anti-inflammatory and wound healing.   This would also be beneficial to all the pimple poppers out there as it could help to prevent the formation and healing of pimple scars.

Why the Molecular Weight of Hyaluronic Acid Formulations is Important?

Not all products are created equal.  That is why molecular weight is important when purchasing your hyaluronic acid products.  According to research, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid displays anti-inflammatory and immunosuppressive properties while low molecular weight displays pro-inflammatory characteristics (Litwiniuk et al, 2016). 

According to a study by Pavicic et. al (2011),  hyaluronic acid products of molecular weights – Fifty (50), One Hundred and Thirty (130), Three Hundred (300), Eight Hundred (800) were shown to reap better results as it relates to skin hydration, skin elasticity and a significant reduction in wrinkle depth.  However, in a study by  ŠMejkalová (2015),  the researcher stated that topical application of products with a molecular weight greater than five hundred (500 kDa)  was not recommended as it does not penetrate deeper skin layers due to the large size.  As such, the researcher contends that high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid formulations will only tend to form a film that will act as a barrier against moisture loss.

On the other hand, hyaluronic acid formulations of molecular weight less than five hundred (500 kDa) are said to be able to permeate and moisturise the skin more effectively, as it is able to increase the uptake of hyaluronic acid at the epidermis level of the skin (ŠMejkalová, 2015). 

Additionally, research contends that hyaluronic acid of very small molecular weight, for example, fifty (50) kDa and below can be very useful in anti-aging as they are better able to penetrate both the dermis and the epidermis as well as serve as a messenger to signal molecules for skin cells to synthesize new hyaluronic acid molecules (ŠMejkalová (2015).

Illustrative Summary

Here is a summary of the four (4) Main Anti-aging effects of HYALURONIC ACID.

Let’s Sum Up!

When it comes to the management of aging skin, not all ingredients are created equal.  Some ingredients will tout overnight miraculous results, while others, which have been tested and tried proclaim otherwise. Hyaluronic acid is of the latter, as it can significantly improve the appearance of skin with consistent use. 

This ingredient has been making its rounds in the anti-aging circles for some time now, with the most popular references in recent years.  Some of the scientifically proven benefits of hyaluronic acid include its ability to moisturize and hydrate the skin due to its ability to hold up to One Thousand (1000) times its weight in water. It is also shown to be able to reduce the signs of photodamaged skin, which is skin that has been overly exposed to the sun for prolonged periods.

Photodamaged or premature aging of the skin displays some of the very signs of aging skin which include fine lines and wrinkles, skin dryness and collagen degradation. Hyaluronic acid is also shown to be able to significantly reduce the depth of wrinkles even those around the eyes and lips (periocular wrinkles). 

The molecular weight of hyaluronic acid products becomes paramount if you want to reap maximum benefits.  As such, research contends that molecular weights under five hundred (500 kDa) are best.  Further, the lower the molecular weight, the better the product will be able to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin. So, choose wisely.

Finally, research shows that hyaluronic acid plays a critical role in tissue regeneration and thus, the wound healing process. To this extent, it has been used pharmaceutically to heal bites, scars and wounds in general. As such, it could be beneficial for pimple blemishes, especially for the pimple poppers out there (myself included 😊).

Now, to answer the question: Hyaluronic acid – anti-aging here or fad?  Well, the answer is super clear. Hyaluronic acid is certainly no fad, but an anti-aging hero in its own right due to its many profound skincare benefits, particularly those geared towards skin aging.  As such, with all that was said ….Are you Skintimate yet?

You can read more on the skin as well as some of the best anti-aging ingredients to add to your skincare regimen and those to be cautious about or simply avoid.  Here are the articles:

• Love the Skin you are in!
• Aging like a Boss – 5 Skincare Ingredients that are ‘must haves’ in your anti-aging Arsenal
• Glycolic acid – The Sting of Beauty
• Oh so bright – 6 Skincare benefits of Vitamin C and how to add it to your skincare regimen

Editor’s Note: Article updated: July 8, 2024

References

• Bukhari, Associate Prof. Dr. Syed Nasir Abbas & Roswandi, Nur & Muhammad, Waqas & Habib, Haroon & Hussain, Fahad & Khan, Shahzeb & Sohail, Muhammad & Ramli, Nor & Thu, Hnin & Hussain, Zahid. (2018). Hyaluronic Acid, a Promising Skin Rejuvenating Biomedicine: A Review of Recent Updates and Pre-clinical and Clinical Investigations on Cosmetic and Nutricosmetic Effects. International journal of biological macromolecules. 120. 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2018.09.188
• Campiche, R, Jackson, E,  Laurent, G, Roche, M, Gougeon, S,  Séroul, P,  Ströbel, S,  Massironi, M  and Gempeler, M. (2019).  Skin Filling and Firming Activity of a Hyaluronic Acid Inducing Synthetic Tripeptide, International Journal of Peptide Research and Therapeutics (2020), 26:181 -189.
• Choulis, N.H. (2014). Dermatological drugs, topical agents and cosmetics. Side Effects of Drugs Annual, vol. 35, pp. 237-294.
• Cyphert JM, Trempus CS, Garantziotis S. Size matters: molecular weight specificity of hyaluronan effects in cell biology. Int J Cell Biol. 2015;2015:563818.
• Franceschi C, Capri M, Monti D, Giunta S, Olivieri F, Sevini F, Panourgia MP, Invidia L, Celani L, Scurti M et al (2007) Inflammaging and anti-inflammaging: a systemic perspective on aging and longevity emerged from studies in humans. Mech Ageing Dev 128:92–105.
• Gold, M.H. (2007). Use of Hyalurnoic acid fillers for the treatment of the aging face. Clin Interv Aging, 2:369-376.Gualdi, G., Monari, P., Cammalleri, D.,  Pelizzari, L and  Pinton, P.C. (2019). Hyaluronic Acid-based Products are Strictly Contraindicated in Scleroderma-related Skin Ulcers, Wounds 2019;31(3):81–84.
• Hashizume H (2004) Skin aging and dry skin. J Dermatol 31:603–609.
• Hisada N, Satsu H, Mori A, et al. Low-molecular-weight hyaluronan permeates through human intestinal Caco-2 cell monolayers via the paracellular pathway. Biosci Biotehnol Biochem. 2008;72(4):1111–1114.
• Jegasothy, S. M., Zabolotniaia, V., & Bielfeldt, S. (2014). Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humans. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 7(3), 27–29.
• Litwiniuk, M., Krejner, A., Grzela, T. (2016). Hyaluronic acid in inflammation and tissue regeneration. Wounds, 28(3):78-88.
• Longas MO, Russell CS, He XY. Evidence for structural changes in dermatan sulfate and hyaluronic acid with aging. Carbohydr Res. 1987;159(1):127–136.
• Oe, Mariko et al. “Oral hyaluronan relieves wrinkles: a double-blinded, placebo-controlled study over a 12-week period.” Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology vol. 10 267-273. 18 Jul. 2017 doi:10.2147/CCID.S141845
• Oh JH, Kim YK, Jung JY, Shin JE, Chung JH (2011) Changes in glycosaminoglycans and related proteoglycans in intrinsically aged human skin in vivo. Exp Dermatol 20:454–456.
• Papakonstantinou, Eleni et al. “Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging.” Dermato-endocrinology vol. 4,3 (2012): 253-8. doi:10.4161/derm.21923.
• Pavicic T, Gauglitz GG, Lersch P, et al.. Efficacy of cream based formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. J Drugs Dermatol. 2011;10(9):990- 1000.
• Poetschke J, Schwaiger H, Steckmeier S, Ruzicka T, Gauglitz GG. Hyaluronsäurehaltige Antifaltencremes: Wie gut wirken sie? : Eine Analyse von Antifaltencremes unterschiedlicher Preisklassen auf Basis objektiver Messmethoden [Anti-wrinkle creams with hyaluronic acid: how effective are they?]. MMW Fortschr Med. 2016;158 Suppl 4:1-6. doi:10.1007/s15006-016-8302-1
• Samuel M, Brooke R, Hollis S, Griiths CEM. Interventions for photodamaged skin. Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews 2015, Issue 6. Art. No.: CD001782. DOI: 10.1002/14651858.CD001782.pub3.
• ŠMejkalová, Daniela & Huerta Angeles, Gloria & Ehlova, Tereza. (2015). Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care.
• Stern R, Maibach HI. Hyaluronan in skin: aspects of aging and its pharmacologic modulation. Clin Dermatol 2008; 26:106-22; PMID:18472055; http:// dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.clindermatol.2007.09.013
• S.C. Taylor, C.M. Burgess, V.D. Callender, Safety of nonanimal stabilized hyaluronic acid dermal fillers in patients with skin of color: a randomized, evaluator- blinded comparative trial, Dermatol. Surg. 35 (Suppl. 2) (2009 Oct) 1653–1660.
• Uitto J. Understanding premature skin aging. N Engl J Med 1997; 337:1463-5; PMID:9358147; http:// dx.doi.org/10.1056/NEJM199711133372011.
• Witting, M, Boreham, A,  Brodwolf, R, Vávrová, K, Alexiev, U, Friess,W, & Hedtrich (née Küchler), S. (2015). Interactions of Hyaluronic Acid with the Skin and Implications for the Dermal Delivery of Biomacromolecules. Molecular pharmaceutics. 12 (5), 1391-401. Doi: 10.1021/mp500676e.